Walk into any skincare aisle, and you'll likely spot it: that tiny bottle labeled "hyaluronic acid serum" promising plump, dewy skin. Scroll through a health supplement site, and there it is again—"hyaluronic acid supplements" claiming to ease joint pain and boost hydration from the inside out. Hyaluronic acid (HA) has become a darling of the beauty and wellness industries, celebrated for its ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. But behind the glowing skin and happy joints lies a production process with a growing sustainability problem. As demand for HA skyrockets—estimated to reach $15.5 billion by 2030—we need to ask: at what cost to our planet?
What Even Is Hyaluronic Acid, Anyway?
Before diving into sustainability, let's get clear on what HA is. Naturally found in our bodies, this gooey, gel-like substance lives in our skin, joints, and eyes, keeping tissues lubricated and hydrated. As we age, our bodies produce less of it, leading to wrinkles, stiff joints, and dry eyes. That's where the beauty and supplement industries step in, creating products that mimic HA's natural role.
But here's the catch: the HA in your serum or pill isn't usually "natural" in the sense of being extracted from humans. Instead, it's manufactured in labs or derived from other sources. And that's where the sustainability story begins.
Two Ways to Make HA: The Old Way and the (Slightly) New Way
HA production boils down to two main methods, each with its own set of environmental and ethical trade-offs. Let's break them down.
1. Animal-Derived HA: The Rooster Comb Dilemma
For decades, the primary source of HA was… rooster combs. Yes, those red, fleshy crests on top of roosters' heads. Here's how it works: farmers collect combs from slaughtered chickens (usually as a byproduct of the poultry industry), then boil and chemically treat them to extract HA. On the surface, using a "byproduct" sounds sustainable—after all, we're not killing roosters just for their combs. But the reality is messier.
First, there's the scale issue. A single rooster comb yields only tiny amounts of HA—we're talking milligrams. To meet global demand, millions of combs are needed annually, which ties HA production to the industrial poultry industry. That industry is itself a sustainability nightmare: massive water use (it takes ~2,500 liters of water to produce 1kg of chicken), deforestation for feed crops, and greenhouse gas emissions (chickens produce methane, a potent GHG). Plus, there are ethical concerns: while combs are a byproduct, the poultry industry's record on animal welfare—overcrowding, antibiotic overuse—is well-documented.
Then there's the extraction process. Boiling combs and using harsh chemicals like acids and enzymes to isolate HA creates toxic wastewater, which, if not treated properly, can pollute rivers and soil. Small-scale operations in some countries often cut corners on waste management, exacerbating the problem.
2. Microbial Fermentation: The Lab-Grown Alternative
In the 1990s, scientists developed a better method: microbial fermentation. Instead of rooster combs, they use bacteria—usually Streptococcus equi or Lactococcus lactis —to "brew" HA. Here's the process: feed the bacteria sugar (like glucose or sucrose), and they metabolize it, producing HA as a byproduct. The HA is then purified, dried into a powder, and sold to manufacturers for use in serums, supplements, and more.
At first glance, microbial fermentation seems greener. No animals are involved, and it's highly scalable—you can produce large quantities in bioreactors. But it's not without its own sustainability issues. Let's start with the sugar. Most fermentation processes rely on corn or cane sugar, which are often grown using intensive agriculture: pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, and vast amounts of water. For example, growing sugar cane requires ~2,100 liters of water per kg, and corn farming is a major driver of soil erosion in the U.S.
Then there's energy use. Bioreactors need to be kept at precise temperatures (around 37°C for Streptococcus ), which requires constant heating and cooling. Purifying the HA also uses energy—centrifuges, filters, and dryers all guzzle electricity, much of which still comes from fossil fuels in many producing countries.
| Sustainability Metric | Animal-Derived HA (Rooster Combs) | Microbial Fermentation HA |
|---|---|---|
| Animal Welfare | Tied to industrial poultry; ethical concerns over farming practices | No animal use; cruelty-free potential |
| Resource Use (Water/Energy) | High water use (via poultry farming); moderate energy for extraction | High energy for bioreactors; high water use for sugar crops |
| Waste Production | Toxic wastewater from chemical extraction | Byproducts like microbial biomass; wastewater from purification |
| Scalability | Limited by poultry industry output | Highly scalable with bioreactor technology |
| Carbon Footprint (Estimated) | High (due to poultry farming emissions) | Moderate to high (depending on energy source and sugar farming) |
The Global Picture: Who's Producing HA, and How?
Today, most HA comes from microbial fermentation—about 80% of the global supply, according to industry reports. China is the biggest player, producing roughly 70% of the world's HA. Companies like Bloomage Biotech (a major Chinese manufacturer) operate massive fermentation facilities, churning out HA for everything from luxury skincare to budget supplements.
But China's dominance comes with caveats. While some large Chinese firms invest in clean energy and waste treatment, smaller producers often prioritize cost-cutting over sustainability. In regions like Shandong, a hub for HA production, reports of untreated wastewater dumping into rivers have surfaced, harming local ecosystems and communities. Energy use is also a concern: China still relies heavily on coal for electricity, making microbial HA production there more carbon-intensive than it could be.
Europe, on the other hand, has stricter environmental regulations. HA producers in Germany and France, for example, are required to use renewable energy and treat wastewater to high standards. This makes their HA more expensive but also more sustainable. Brands like The Ordinary, which sells affordable hyaluronic acid serums, source from European suppliers, emphasizing transparency in their production processes.
North America is a mixed bag. Demand for sustainable products is growing—consumers are increasingly asking for cruelty-free, eco-friendly HA. Some U.S. companies are responding by partnering with European or certified sustainable Asian suppliers. For example, supplements brands often highlight "microbial-derived" HA to appeal to vegan and environmentally conscious buyers. But there's still a lack of standardized sustainability metrics, making it hard for consumers to compare products.
The Hidden Costs: What Else Is at Stake?
Beyond the two main production methods, other sustainability issues lurk in the HA supply chain. Let's unpack a few.
Feedstock Dilemmas: When Sugar Isn't So Sweet
Microbial fermentation relies on sugar, and not all sugar is created equal. Most producers use corn syrup or cane sugar, which are cheap but often linked to deforestation (in the case of cane sugar in Brazil) or monocropping (corn in the U.S.). Monocropping depletes soil nutrients, requiring synthetic fertilizers that run off into waterways, causing algal blooms and dead zones. It also reduces biodiversity—fields of endless corn or sugarcane ｒｅｐｌａｃｅ native ecosystems, harming pollinators and wildlife.
Some companies are experimenting with alternative feedstocks, like agricultural waste (e.g., rice straw or sugarcane bagasse). This could turn a problem (farm waste) into a resource, but scaling this technology is expensive. For now, most stick to cheap, conventional sugars.
Waste Not, Want Not: The Byproduct Problem
Both production methods generate waste. Animal-derived HA leaves behind leftover comb material and chemical sludge. Microbial fermentation produces "spent biomass"—the bacteria used to make HA—along with salty, nutrient-rich wastewater. If these byproducts aren't reused or treated, they become pollutants.
The good news? Some innovative companies are finding uses for this waste. For example, spent microbial biomass can be dried and used as animal feed, closing the loop. Wastewater from fermentation can be treated and reused in factories or for irrigation. But these practices require investment in infrastructure, which many producers—especially in low-cost regions—are reluctant to make.
Greenwashing: When "Sustainable" Is Just a Marketing Word
As consumers demand sustainability, brands are quick to slap "eco-friendly" or "green" labels on their hyaluronic acid serums and supplements. But without clear standards, it's hard to tell what's real and what's hype. For example, a brand might claim its HA is "sustainable" because it's microbial-derived, but if the sugar used to feed the bacteria comes from deforested land, is that truly sustainable? Or if the factory runs on coal power?
Certifications could help, but there's no universal standard for sustainable HA. The Cosmetics Europe Ecolabel covers some sustainability criteria for finished products, but not specifically for HA production. The Leaping Bunny certification ensures no animal testing, but not environmental impact. This lack of transparency makes it tough for consumers to make informed choices.
Solutions on the Horizon: Can HA Production Go Green?
The news isn't all doom and gloom. Innovators are working on ways to make HA production more sustainable. Here are a few promising developments:
1. Engineering Better Bacteria
Synthetic biologists are tweaking bacteria to produce HA more efficiently. By editing their DNA, scientists can make microbes that use less sugar, grow faster, and produce higher yields of HA. This reduces resource use and waste. For example, researchers at the University of California, Berkeley, engineered a strain of E. coli that produces HA with 30% less energy than traditional bacteria.
2. Plant-Based HA: The Next Frontier?
Forget bacteria—what if we could grow HA in plants? Companies like CollPlant are exploring using tobacco plants to produce HA via genetic modification. Plants require less energy and water than bioreactors, and they absorb CO2 as they grow. While this technology is still in early stages, it could one day offer a low-carbon alternative to microbial fermentation.
3. Circular Economy Models
Some producers are adopting circular practices, like using waste from other industries as feedstock. For example, a brewery's leftover yeast could be used to feed HA-producing bacteria, turning beer waste into a valuable resource. Others are capturing and reusing heat from bioreactors to warm offices or greenhouses, reducing energy waste.
4. Certification Standards: Let's Get Specific
Industry groups are starting to develop sustainability standards for HA. The Sustainable Cosmetics Coalition, for example, is working on a framework that includes raw material sourcing, energy use, and waste management. Once these standards are in place, brands can earn certifications that consumers can trust—no more greenwashing.
What Can You Do as a Consumer?
You don't have to swear off hyaluronic acid serum or supplements to be sustainable. Here's how to make better choices:
- Look for microbial-derived HA : It's generally more scalable and cruelty-free than animal-derived HA. Check the ingredient list for "sodium hyaluronate" (the salt form of HA)—this is almost always microbial-derived.
- Ask about feedstocks : Brands that use sustainable sugar sources (like organic or waste-based sugars) are better. Some might mention this on their websites or in customer service responses.
- Support certifications : Even if there's no HA-specific cert, look for brands with general sustainability certifications, like B Corp or EU Ecolabel. These companies are more likely to prioritize ethical production.
- Buy less, but better : HA products have a shelf life—using them up before they expire reduces waste. Opt for refillable packaging when possible.
The Future of HA: Balancing Science and Sustainability
Hyaluronic acid isn't going away anytime soon. Its benefits—for skin, joints, and beyond—are too great. But as demand grows, the industry must do better. From rethinking feedstocks to adopting circular practices, there are paths to sustainability. It will take investment, innovation, and consumer pressure, but it's possible.
Imagine a future where your hyaluronic acid serum is made with bacteria fed on agricultural waste, in a factory powered by solar energy, with wastewater treated and reused. A future where HA production heals the planet instead of harming it. That future is within reach—but only if we demand it.
So the next time you reach for that hyaluronic acid supplement or serum, take a second to wonder: where did this HA come from? And what can I do to support a better way?
